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Home Mods / Upgrades Brakes Porsche 6 Piston Brake Upgrade

Porsche 6 Piston Brake Upgrade

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Porsche Cayenne 6-P direct bolt on:

Requirements: if you chose to use this upgrade then the wheel size MUST be at least 18”. The allroad 17” stock wheel equipment will not fit.

 

This set is distributed and sold by ECS Tuning but your Porsche dealer may also be able to help out. Price may vary, please see website for details ($1895.95) (www.ecstuning.com)

 

Tools needed: Well, sorry folks but this part I did not track. But if you have a set of standard metric sockets and wrenches then you are good to go. The largest one needed is a 22mm box wrench.

 

Parts needed/recommended:

2x 6 Piston Brake Calipers, made by BREMBO for Porsche Cayenne

2x custom 352x32 directional rotor rings, cross drilled and slotted

2x lightweight aluminum rotor heads 4x Caliper bolts

2x braided stainless steel brake lines – front axle; incl.

2x copper seal washers

2x braided stainless steel bake lines – rear axle (optional)

1x set of HAWK Performance brake pads – HPS compound; but you can also choose Porsche OEM pads or RS29 PAGID pads.

 

Installation:

 

CAUTION: Make sure that the Suspension is locked in Jack-mode before the car is lifted up (lift or Jack stand).

 

First, remove the wheels (5 bolts each 17mm socket). Once the wheels are off, the stock rubber brake lines can be removed from the chassis. This is easily done with a flare wrench specifically designed for removing brake fittings. (The reason for this tool is to ensure the nuts on high-pressure fittings are not rounded off when tightening or loosening.)

 

Once the rubber brake line is free of the steel line on the chassis, remove the spring steel retaining clip and the rubber line will be free. You can leave the brake line attached to the stock brake caliper since neither will be reused. Removal of the stock brake caliper is a simple matter of removing two bolts that affix the stock caliper to the back of the wheel housing (see picture further down in article). Once the two bolts are out, the caliper is easily slipped off the brake rotor.

 

In order to prevent any damage during the installation it is recommended to secure the caliper while worked on, a couple of quick fasteners will do it.

 

 

The very next option is a personal judgment call – the Stock splash guard. It should be removed entirely to avoid running into clearance issues, but it can also be modified by trimming it, should you prefer to keep it.

 

Before installing the new rotors, it's a good idea to remove built-up corrosion from the hub. These rotors are hub-centric so they'll need a good, clean surface to mount and locate them. Not to mention the new rotors will be a tight fit in the hub area and a layer of corrosion won't be helpful during the installation procedure. Now you have done all tat and it is time to install the rotor. The rotor is DIRECTIONAL, so make sure that the slots/holes sweep backwards at the 12’o clock mark. You can also use the air holes between the rotor disc as orientation, they should point downward if you look straight at them. You can hold the rotor in place by using a wheel bolt or two, it eases the caliper installation.

 

Installation of the new brake hardware is straightforward. Begin by bolting the brake caliper bracket to the same place where you just removed the stock brake caliper bolts and torque to 95 ft-lbs. 2 bolts for each site. A drop of Lock-tite will help to ensure that the bolts are tight and secure.

 

 

Next, attach the stainless steel brake line to the caliper with the included banjo bolt, using a copper crush washer on either side of the fitting. Be sure everything is straight without obstacles so the brake line can make a natural "S" bend and move freely within given limits. Leave the banjo bolt slightly loose until the brake line is routed the way you want it, then snug down to 20 ft-lbs of torque.

 

 

The brake lines will need to be bled once the installation is complete; this can be done the two-person way (one in the driver's seat, one at the caliper) or the one-person way with a handheld brake bleeding vacuum pump. Then top off the fluid reservoir and you'll be ready for the bedding-in process!

The bleeding process should be dome in the following sequence:

Passenger Side

- Inner Bleeder Screw

- Outer Bleeder Screw Driver Side

- Inner Bleeder Screw

- Outer Bleeder Screw Please repeat thi s process until all air is taken out of the system and the reservoir is at normal level.

 

 

So far – so good, and by now you’ll found out that there are no brake pad wear sensors on the new pads but the connector is still in place. The Wheel Bearing Housing can offer a solution, it has a few holes that can be used to hide the connector. Not pretty, but functional. Use electric tape or duct tape to wrap up the connector to protect it from the elements and simply place it into one of the holes of the bearing housing. In addition, you can secure the pad wear connector with a zip-tie.

 

Finally slide the pads into the caliper holding them in place with the anti-rattle clip and bridge support. Note that before installing pads you may want to treat the back of the pad with an anti-squeal coating as well as lubricate the pad guide

pins in the caliper with a high-temperature brake grease. With the bridge support installed use the supplied bolt to hold it in place, torque to 10ft-lbs (13Nm).

 

 

Please double check your work before you put the wheel back on the car, it’s for your sake and safety!

 

 

And if you are done then you should see something like this:

 

 

Have Fun.....after you did the bed-in procedure ;-)

Last Updated on Sunday, 23 January 2011 23:45